Mugler Magic
Art by Jonny Arendt-Rosenberg
Fashion shows have always been one of the most glamorous aspects of the fashion industry. All the photographers, celebrities, hair and makeup, and models running around from show to show, with the shows showcasing the climax of months of work done in preparation to create these visual masterpieces on the runway. The designers work with their ateliers for months on patterns and garments and then a week of castings ensures the right models can showcase the clothes to the customers and fashion editors everywhere. But during this pandemic, all of these routines had to change.
The copious amounts of people needed to make a show go on could not meet up in person for fear of contracting the virus, but due to it being an industry of creatives, everyone was determined to create new ways of showcasing the beauty in a more safe way. Some brands digitally rendered the clothes, some had full lookbooks shot on one model, and some even just had shows without audiences, with scrupulous testing.
But Mugler this season was a different story.
Casey Cadwallader, the creative director of Mugler as of 2017, and his team produced one of the most visually striking fashion videos during the pandemic. After already creating some major fashion moments in 2020 such as the rainbow dress in Beyonce’s Black is King music video, Kylie Jenner’s King Kobra halloween look, and Miley Cyrus and Dua Lipa wearing his designs to the red carpet, the fashion world was waiting for the next show and he did not disappoint.
This collection consisted of Casey’s signature cut out bodysuits in black and white, mixed with bright green, pink, and blue tights and suit jackets, sleek body-con shimmery dresses and coreseted denim jeans as well as a hefty denim jacket. The suit jackets made of tech suba and marquisette keep some of those classic couture elements paired with the uber revealing cutouts of the bodysuits, tights, and dresses allows these ready to wear pieces to have the same lingerie feeling of some of Thierry Mugler’s 1990’s iconic pieces, but also appeals to the younger clientele. The see thru mesh of the illusions neckline bodysuits allows the wearer to be fully covered as well as show the appropriate amount of decolletage. The highwaisted spiral jeans have denim panels that look as if your legs are corseted, while the black panels running down the back of the pant highlight the buttocks and the ankle at the same time.
The casting, editing and music also played a huge role of boosting this stellar show. Cadwallader is known for having lots of body types and skin tones on the runway because he believes you should be able to see your clothes on everyone and if you are putting people “with different body types down the runway, you better do a good job with it.” The casting for this show had some of the most striking people in fashion at the moment: Bella Hadid, Dominique Jackson, Hunter Schafer, Soo Joo Park, Kembra Pfahler, and Alek Wek. The editing of the show added to the fast paced and mesmerizing visuals. All the models walked in reverse, giving them more alien motion and Hunter had water poured all over her, allowing the rhinestones on her dress to reflect the light as well as the stark black background. The music was truly made to get your adrenaline pumping. The hyperpop of Shy Girl repeating “you wanna go slow” and the strong beats of Maureen Lucea fit the alien-like editing and the bold silhouettes in each look.
Cadwallader had big shoes to fill coming into the house of Mugler following Nicola Formichetti best known for his work with Lady Gaga, and before that it was Manfred Thierry Mugler who started the brand, making it one of the most avante garde and innovative brands around. Thierry’s haute couture really followed the idea that he wanted to make clothes “because [he] was looking for something that didn’t exist.” This idea really pushed him to create some of the most eccentric and lavish looking corsets and lingerie that left audiences then and now stunned. Nicola was responsible for the Telephone and Alejandro music videos as well as most of Gaga’s red carpet looks. He also changed the name of the brand from Thierry Mugler to just Mugler while simultaneously bringing in the brands first menswear line. So far Casey Cadwallader has pushed the brand into being even more accessible to the general public especially younger audiences. He has been focusing on making garments that combine sportswear and lingerie, so that even if you are shown off lots of skin, you will feel comfortable in the fabrics and silhouettes. In my opinion I think he has done a great job modernizing the brand and pushing it forward through lowering the prices and sending lots of PR to influencers. Keep it up Casey!
Fave Looks From the Collection
